There’s something to be said for simplicity.
When it comes to food, simple doesn’t have to be boring. Simple can be exciting and it can be delicious.
Case in point: Couchiching Craft Brewing Co.
When Orillia’s only brewery opened last year during the early days of the pandemic, it was selling beer only. I tried it and was immediately impressed, but it was the eventual opening of the kitchen that excited me most.
When that day came, I placed my takeout order for a burger. It’s a good test. If I’m trying out a new place and there’s a burger on the menu, that’s where I start.
Not only did it pass the test; I felt the need to tell the world about it on social media. And then again. And maybe one more time after that.
It’s a smash burger, but not the typical style. Smash burgers are often super thin, but this one carries some weight.
“I didn’t want the burger falling apart by the time it got to the table,” said Brandon Conrad, head chef at the downtown brewery.
The right bun can help. Conrad knew that, which is why he tried a variety of them from Orillia Bakery and Deli. He settled on the butter bun.
“It seared awesome. You put it on the flat top and get that golden toast on it,” he said. “It held its own against the sauce, the pickles and the meat.”
Not much else is needed for a good burger. It can be fun to try something more adventurous — burgers piled high with layers upon layers of toppings. Some places even put edible gold on them for those who want to actually put their money where their mouths are.
What stood out to me when I took my first bite of CCBC’s burger was, first, the flavour, followed by the simplicity.
Conrad uses 100 per cent chuck, finding the fat-to-meat ratio ideal. Complementing that AAA-grade Canadian beef patty are lettuce, pickle, special sauce, and cheese.
At first, Conrad was tempted to slap a slice of orange cheddar on the burger — a classic, and for good reason — but that changed after he did a tasting at Say Cheese. He was taken by the Vasey shop’s sheep-style gouda.
“It wasn’t overpowering, so it wouldn’t scare people like a blue cheese or something like that would. It was just a little bit of a step up,” he said.
Have I convinced you to try the burger yet? I could write this entire column about it, but there’s much more to CCBC.
Conrad has been asked many times to characterize his culinary offerings, and it’s a struggle.
“We’re a brewpub. We’re not a pub. It’s not classic pub fare. It’s kind of a mix of different foods,” he said. “You don’t need 30 ingredients in a dish to make it taste good. Try and keep it as simple as possible. Use fresh ingredients. Cook like you’re cooking at home for yourself.”
Though there are perennial options like the burger and poutine, the menu often changes. Some of it is dictated by the seasons. Conrad gravitates toward lighter fare in the summer and comfort food in the colder months.
As patio season was winding down last year, I huddled near a heater and enjoyed the butternut squash polenta with stout-braised brisket.
This is a brewpub, after all, so beer features prominently in and alongside the food. In addition to braising meat with stout, Conrad had previously prepared IPA-marinated chicken skewers.
“It’s either in the food or it’s paired well with the food,” he explained. “As much as I can use it and have it taste good, that’s the idea.”
Local beer and local food products make for good pairings, which is why the chef uses meat and produce from this area as often as possible. In addition to cheese from Vasey, he often incorporates items from Honey Green Farms in Honey Harbour and Dragon Acres Farm in Brechin.
“A lot of those little touches that these people bring can really make it pop a bit more,” he said.
Those local relationships can extend to the beer, too. CCBC currently has the White Wolf on tap — a collaboration that brings together the brewery’s Sunshine City blonde and coffee from Lone Wolf Café, which is just around the corner.
CCBC also recently opened its upstairs event space for the first time. It hosted a wedding dinner and reception not long ago.
It allows Conrad to switch things up a bit with a pre fixe menu, though à la carte is an option for smaller groups.
“Repetition is a killer in this industry, so it’s good to start playing around with menu changes,” he said.
No matter what you choose from the menu, Conrad’s dedication shines through. And it is indeed dedication. The Red Seal chef has been a fixture since the brewery opened.
At that time, there wasn’t a kitchen, so he was helping in the back, doing everything from heavy lifting to driving the forklift, all the while dreaming up the menus that were to come.
That dedication is paying off for him and for Orillia, offering the community a truly unique food and drink experience.
The good stuff
Most popular: smash burger
Brandon Conrad’s favourite: chicken wings, Laclie Lager
My favourite: smash burger, Ragged Rapids red IPA
Nathan Taylor’s local food and drink column appears every other Saturday.
